Wednesday, November 17, 2010

Machu Picchu

Unless you have enough forethought to plan half a year in advance there is absolutely no chance that you will get two toes on the Inca Trail that leads to Machi Picchu. Fortunately, there are numerous other options to reach said destination however, most are only desirable if you have a strong affinity for camping amidst a sea of 50+ tents full of roughly one million novice campers. Totally my cup of tea... Given this and impending time constraints, I chose to take the insanely overpriced train to Aguas Calientes, the town at the base of Machu Picchu. Armed with several guide books and random bits of knowledge that I picked up along the way, I decided to go at it alone without a guide. I met a lovely gal from Minnesota on the train and we quickly became pals, as is often the case while traveling all by your lonesome. After arriving in the small, dirty town of of Auguas Calientes, we decided to catch a late lunch/early dinner. My new gal-pal, Ryan and I made our way to the highly recommended, fancy pants restaurant, Indio Feliz, where we consumed a four course meal for about $25. After that feast there was no need to even think about eating again... Ryan and I wondered around the town and markets then decided to turn in for an early evening because tomorrow was going to come entirely too early. I was determined to make it to Wayna Picchu (that massive, cone-shaped peak that you see in the background of nearly every foto of Machu Picchu) so I decided to set out at 3:30 AM in order to ensure that I would be one of the first 400 people at the gate (only the first 400 are given the coveted admittance to the peak). Ryan was NOT keen on this early rise time so we agreed to meet up later in the day. Armed with snacks, sunscreen and guidebooks galore, I began my mini-trek long before the sun would even think about showing his face. Unfortunately, the week prior, my headlamp had mysteriously taken leave so I was was left to trek by the light of the moon and the flashlight app on my iPod. There was not a soul in sight as I ¨blazed¨ past the various checkpoints but as I entered the thick forest I decided it was best if I not go at it totally alone as I probably made a fairly easy target there sweating and stumbling along the Inca steps by the faint light of an iPod... Shortly thereafter, I was came upon a family of Germans and immediately assimilated with their group. I was grateful to partake of their copious light, as each was well equipped with his own headlamp. Ohh those Germans, always so prepared! After a few minutes of pleasant conversation and gentle ambling up the seemingly endless steps, I realized that the Germans lacked the same urgency to get to the gate. We split ways and I was immediately thrust into darkness; it was only by the grace of God that I did not kill myself or break an ankle as I fumbled along. Each time I spied the light of a headlamp ahead of me on the trail, terror flooded my heart- What if THAT was the 400th person???? All of my sweaty efforts would be for not!!! With renewed determination, I continued my scramble upwards all the while praying that my next step would not cause me to plunge to my death. Eventually, I heard a chorus of voices and I knew I was nearly to the top! Ahhh finally, finally, I was there I reached the top and to my surprise I discovered that I was at most the 30th person in line! Ahahahaha all that fretting for nothing!
After a couple hours of waiting for the gates to open, I was greeted by a spectacular surprise. I stood there, literally breathless, taking in the beauty of the ruins of Machu Picchu. This site is truly as incredible as everyone says, one can only speculate as to the grandeur that existed while the place was occupied by the Inca. I spent hours walking, photographing and admiring the ruins.
I know this is just about the campiest thing I have ever written but I was honestly so impressed, I can´t really help but to write about it.
At ten AM, I hiked up about one million more slippery, stinkin´Inca steps to the top of Wayna Picchu. From here the views were absolutely unbeatable! As my brother, Brandon, would say, they were enough to turn you into a mouth breather, for sure! The velvety green hills tuck and fold into one another and from this point on the mountain you are able to see that the entire establishment of Machu Picchu was constructed in the shape of the sacred condor, an enterprise that is still to this day, incredibly impressive.
After 11 hours trekking, observing, photographing and gawking I decided I had enough and that it was time to head back. I wanted to see where I had been as I stumbled along in the darkness in the wee hours of the morning so I skipped the bus that carries people back down the mountain and decided to give the Inca steps another go but this time in the light. It didn´t take long for me to realize that it was a true miracle that I didn´t topple off the cliff in the darkness!
Conclusion, Machu Picchu is touristy to the max but totally worth it and despite what anyone else says 3:30 AM is not too early for a sweaty climb to one of the coolest places of the ancient world! Also, a special thanks to Brandon and Shannon for the birthday gift that made my Machu Picchu adventure possible! Love you!

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